1. I’m with ya on this one Matthias.

  2. I have a slightly smaller drill press. I don’t use a fancy table. I will often clamp a board or fence to the table. One pain is that it is hard to clamp to the table due to the raised bracing on the bottom. I heard it was because that are made for a machinist. I think Powermatic makes a drill press with even thickness around the edges. I wish that was a feature on smaller, cheaper models.

  3. I don’t believe in drilling holes at all. I usually just burn any holes needed in my woodworking project with my acetylene torch.

  4. Your used sacrificial board looks like the surface of the moon.  Stain it and sell it as art!

  5. Good video, lots of food for thought.


  6. +seigeengine
    Actually, I suck at welding.  Wood is my game.

  7. When I get the part of a project that needs holes, I purchase pre-made boards with the appropriate size hole in them.  I then cut out the section of my project and glue in the pre-made holes.  It works really well, except for the time I spend waiting for those pieces to come from Amazon.

  8. +Ryan Fromdahl I used to buy pre-made holes that I just glued to the board at the right place but they kept falling out of the bag

  9. +Ryan Fromdahl I still keep a box of knots around. 

  10. Years ago I was working with a cabinet maker who told me wood screws were made to be pounded in. They only made a slot in them in case they needed to be removed. I always thought he was joking, but tried it the other day when working overhead in an area I couldn’t get the hand drill – works pretty slick. Think I might try my plasma cutter on plywood.

  11. +1Howdy1 HAHAHA

  12. It would be ideal to have a big table wich you could un-install in seconds with a pair of knobs or something.

  13. +RickMakes I have added wood filler strips between the ribs on the bottom of the table to make a wide and level clamping area. they are held in place with small spots of silicone so i can remove them if needed. They have been there for over ten years and easy clamping around the perimeter as needed.

  14. +ComandanteJ Yes, that is what I have on my floor standing press. I have used large wingnuts on the base of the bolts, allowing me to very quickly remove the table from the press. my press has a 30cm square table, I have built a 60cm x 40cm table to fit over the top using plywood, and fitted a movable rear stop to allow me to precisely cut timber. I have fitted a ruler on one edge to measure from, and the rear stop is made using two bolts at the side to clamp it in place. What the guy in this video is stating, is correct, for some uses the big table is getting in the way, so just make it removable, and remove it when needed. If you are into wood working, why not use these skills to build something of this sort.

  15. +RickMakes bolt a board ontop of table that over hangs the existing table, so you can clamp to it, and then do as he does, and use a floating board ontop of it

  16. Matthias, I love the crap out of your visuals, logic, and humility. You’re great.

  17. I too do this and when I need to I make a fence and a stop for metal and other piece that require more repeat-ability. It is nice to be able to make what you need when you need it not feeling locked into a table design that might restrict your abilities. Great little vid Matthias

  18. +ComandanteJ
    Wow. I wonder why nobody has ever thought of that?

  19. I have been watching quite a few of your video’s and without a doubt you are a very talented carpenter who has hands of Gold. Keep the video’s coming because your projects are just amazing.

  20. +Dan DIY l like that solution! Quick and easy. Will give it a try. Thanks.

  21. americannovice americannovice

    +boethius61 . You can always use the 6011 welding rod. It’s nickname is the beauty rod since beginners use it for a foolproof result.

  22. Matthias, with all due respect, I think your drill bit wobbles because you have a cheap drill press. Expensive is not always good, but “cheap” is cheap for a reason. I have 2 floor drill presses in my shop (one for wood and one for metal) and both are very precise with near zero run out. I check that with a polished drill blank chucked up and a good dial indicator. I bought a cheap drill press (for convenience in the garage) and it had wobble of about 0.010″ which is much too much. Swapped it for another, and same thing. Replaced the chuck, same problem. So checked just the quill, and there was the run out. Used a scrap of hardwood and a heavy hammer to straighten the quill to < 0.001" run out. Yes, I likely "dinged" the quill bearing, but I don't use it very often, so should outlast me regardless. My point is, you normally have to pay for precision, or not, as your preference might be. But you can't say that any type or class of tools is imprecise, just because you buy the cheapest

  23. Worcester Exchange

    You know what annoys me?
    Just how neat, clean and organized your workshop is.
    It really isn’t fair to the rest of us!

  24. Table thingy =)

  25. Speak for yourself.

  26. Awesome use of the word… Thingee…

  27. The wood shop in my school loves your videos and my Teacher uses them all the time, thanks for the great content!

  28. tornado siren recorder/hking123456789

    Matthias will you someday make a dust collector for your drill press

  29. Thank you for sharing this knowledge, some items I had come to realise.
    Cy Joseph

  30. Have you people seen what this man builds with his “cheap” tools?? Apparently it is the ability as a master woodworker.Spending tons of money on the big brand names Doesn’t matter when you’re that talented.

  31. Nice tip w the caliper. Thanks!

  32. Worcester Exchange …that’s first thing I noticed..

  33. About bit wobble… I saw a video where the guy said you sometimes need to tighten more than a single hole with the chuck; each hole tightens a different part of the chuck, he said.

  34. I have a cheap Ryobi, I measured the runout today right under the chuck, using two different bits, and my runout is a little less than .001″

  35. Drills don’t drill round holes. They never do. If you want a truly accurate round hole you must use a reamer

  36. Brian, that maybe true to some extent.. but at some point even an “entry level” specifically designed tool is still better than a “customized tool” that is using cheap, and weak electric tools.  I have utterly destroyed cheap tools like Harbor Freight in one use, and had to go spend the money on a better one anyway.

  37. Once again, I’m looking around for general shop information and I land on another of your excellent videos. Today obviously, I’m researching drill presses and thinking about adding one to my shop. I marvel at your shop organization also. I’m going to use your video show my wife why I NEED a Drill Press and can’t just do it with a drill. Thank YOU again and again for your continued excellence in all woodworking disciplines. Thumbs UP

  38. Free Range Chickens

    What? That’s awesome! 🙂

  39. Free Range Chickens

    I thought the very same thing!

  40. Yes, I have seen what he builds, and it is not impressive. He is very good at making accurate tools, but when it comes to using them, he is not at all skilled in what he makes. He almost throws things together with tons of mistakes and inaccurate work everywhere. It is like he only takes pride in making tools, and whatever they are used for doesn’t matter.

  41. If you have money to buy an expensive drill press, might just buy a milling machine for that extra accuracy

  42. Igaveyoumyfakename

    I’m lost by his repeated use of huge complicated terms like “thingy.”

  43. Awesome tool maker. I appreciate his videos.

  44. Ángel Hernández

    I smell jealousy in one of the replies…

  45. If you look at the tip of any standard drill bit you will see that it does not come to a point but a line between the flukes. As the the drill contacts the workpiece there will be a line and not a point of contact. This line of contact will cause lateral forces that cause the hole centre or the drill bit to move (no matter how precise your equipment). The awl is a quick way of making a pilot hole that allows the angled sides of the drill to contact the workpiece and find the centre. As others have noted here, in woodworking you use a drill bit to form a hole but in metalworking you follow a drilled hole with a ream to make it round and cylindrical.

    On the point of this video, I agree with Matthias that the need to move the table and change the height (by reaching behind) means that anything added to the table interferes with productivity.

  46. Matthias is not a master woodworker. hes a genius engineer woodworker

  47. You do realise you’re spending her money – yes, her money – even if it is your money, it’s not! – all money is hers! I would expect she has no use for a drill press. It is utterly futile to explain why you’re buying it, no matter how sensible the purchase is. In your next life, make sure you marry a carpenter instead.

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