Making Raised Panel Cabinet Doors On A Router Table

How to make raised panel doors on a router table, a discussion of the basics and the finer points of the process. If you are woodworker or cabinetmaker this is a fundamental skill you'll need to learn.

32 Comments

  1. Excellent video presentation of frame and panel doors. Thanks for sharing. 

  2. Nikolaos Vitoroulis

    Great instructions!!

  3. Wonderful presentation! I am very interested in pursuing raised panel construction as my next step in woodworking. Thanks for being so clear in the instructions.

  4. Very good tutorial man….thanx for the advice.

  5. Great tip on the vertical router bit for the panel. I hadn’t seen that before. Those huge panel bits are pretty scary looking.

  6. Thanks for the tip on the router bit… I was aware of how unsafe the big flat profiles are and is great to know the vertical bits are available.

  7. amazing presentation. thanks a lot

  8. Phillip Bustamante

    Great instructional video!  Thanks for the information.

  9. Gonzalo Cortes Polania Chalo

    gracias por su amplía explicación me gustaría que colocará la referencia o el código de las cuchillas un abrazo

  10. Very clear, helpful demonstration. Thank you.

  11. whats d thickness of the raised panel and the rail and stiles? does the panel has to be the same thickness as the rails and tiles?

  12. +Raj Dann Most typically the rails and stiles are 3/4 inch thick and if you are doing a raised panel it is the same thickness. Some raised panel bit profiles will allow a 5/8 inch panel instead. If you are creating flat panel doors you can use thinner stock as long as the edges fit into the grooves in the rails and stiles.

  13. OK here is my problem I’m using 3/4 stock for the rails as well for the panel. However when I make my panel an put it in the panel is raised from the rail an stiles…….

  14. +Raj Dann If you want the front surface of the door panel to be flush with the rails and stiles (and I’m assuming you are using a matched router bit set to make the rails and stiles) then either you need to find a panel router bit which will relieve the backside of the 3/4 panel as you also cut the front profile or you need to use 5/8 stock. Depending on the profile you MAY also be able to use a bit to cut the front side profile on a 3/4 panel, but cut it shallower than you normally would. Then, in a second pass, you can relieve the backside of the panel edge to fit in the groove. Essentially you are centering the edge of the panel which fits into the groove.

  15. ok.kool….I understand…

  16. Thanks so much for posting–very helpful!

  17. Thanks for sharing. Very helpful

  18. Thank you for the info. Nice video.

  19. African Cichlids

    why not just use a 45 chamfer

  20. African Cichlids

    +Raj Dann 90% of 1 inch lumber is 3/4 inch thick

  21. +African Cichlids With just a 45 chamfer, the panel will not sit into the groove properly. You create a very good chance of splitting the groove profile when putting the panel into the groove. This is especially true when glueing up and clamping the door.

  22. Cool thanks good info.

  23. I just ordered a raised panel router bit set ogee. 3 piece set

  24. Hello friend, sorry for the mistakes do not understand a word of English (google translator). I live in Brazil and here there is no video lessons as their that actually teach, your videos are an example to follow!
    I have a question: what wood you are using the video? I do this work with the cutters on MDF?
    A hug….

  25. Yes, the middle panels in this case were MDF. That can be cut using router bits. For the stiles and rails I typically use pine or poplar for painted work.

  26. Great job! Lots of tips I’ve never thought about that will help tremendously!

    My question, what wood would you use to make the raised panel, no MDF. The cabinet doors will be painted.

    Thank you

    C

  27. If you want to use solid wood for the panel and it will be painted, then a good choice is poplar. It’s a hardwood but relatively cheap and it takes paint well. You’ll probably have to glue up several boards on edge to get the width you need. Look for poplar which has been stored indoors and is already nice and dry. If you’ll be using the doors in your own house, you can let the unmilled wood acclimate to your home for a couple of weeks so that it is stable before you make the doors.

  28. Do you make custom cabinet doors for just anyone? Like Could i order doors from you?? haha

  29. Well, yes, but it probably doesn’t make economic sense. Typically when I get into custom cabinets or doors it’s because there are unique circumstances which prevent the use of standard sizes or styles. If you can find factory made cabinets or doors which suit your need it will be cheaper. Do a search online for cabinet doors and you’ll find that there are a lot of vendors offering them made to your measurements in styles that match typical kitchen cabinets made in recent decades.

  30. thank u

  31. wonderful video !! thanks for taking the time can you tell me what board size for the rails and styles you used ?should they be the same thickness as the panel ?also what other type of wood for the panel instead of mdf ? thanks in advance for your response.

  32. Thickness for the rails and stiles is typically 3/4 for cabinet doors. The panel can also be 3/4 thickness, or you may choose to plane down a wood panel to a lesser thickness. Of course, you can also use plywood for a flat panel if you choose, typically 1/4 inch thickness to fit in the grooves or a little thicker with rabbits to allow fitment into the grooves. As for width of the rails and stiles, it can vary depending on the look you are after, but typical widths vary between 2 and 4 inches. Traditionally the bottom rail is wider than the top rail, which was done for strength and visual weight, but modern manufactured cabinet doors usually have the same width rails top and bottom because it allows them to mount the door either direction after drilling holes for euro hinges.

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