Advanced Framing for Energy Efficient Garage Workshop

Advanced Framing for Energy Efficient Garage Workshop.
Lots of help during this phase of construction. Our framing is 24 inches on center, 2×6. The sheathing is 23/32 OSB with a tongue and groove. That thickness really helps when spanning the stud distance. The trusses have a 6:12 pitch. The top cord extends out to the overhang giving us about 16 inches of depth at the exterior wall sheathing. This is a type of "raised heel" to allow for lots of insulation in the attic.

That thick wall sheathing over studs spaced 24" on center makes for a more solid wall. I like these walls more than my house walls, and I framed those (outer walls) 16" on center with 1/2" Plywood.

Thank you everyone who helped out.

To read more details about the build check out my blog post:

47 Comments

  1. Your channel rocks! I like how you built your own house and garage while making it energy efficient. You worry about those small details to make it tight and ventilated right! Keep up the good work!

  2. Thank you for the kind words.

  3. Where is the continuation film of the project? Inner walls, wiring, lighting etc etc? Would be good to see đź‘Ť

  4. Thanks for watching. I’ve got plenty of footage, but just need to kick myself in the butt to edit it together. Next one should be up by the end of the week.

  5. My wife and I am in our mid 70’s, still building a large duplex, 2 sq ft each and each has a 4 car garage. I had energy trusses designed so there is 14 inches between the top plate and the roof osb so there is lots of insulation, We have an old forklift made from a truck. We have a 6 ft wide , 36 inch high work basket for the forklift that I installed rollers to the narrow ends of the basket, I nailed 2. 2 x 6’s 12 ft long to make an L then fastened it to the work basket to have a tall post to lean the trusses upright, Our building is 32 ft wide. we used push props and rope to get the trusses onto the forklift and stood up. . I had to make lots of back and forth to get the forklift into position close to the outside of the wall. I had my aluminum roll around scaffolding inside, We rolled the trusses over the wall , then I grabbed the tail end and had one of the grandkids roll me to the far wall where I lifted the truss onto the top plate we used the rope to steady the truss until it was braced. The 49 ft truss set over the garage door opening was engineered to have one made from 2 X 4 and 2 X 6’s and the other from 2 X 6’s and 2 X 8’s and ewere to be individually stood up , then nailed together BUT they were nailed together at the truss factory. One HEAVY beast. I have a 580 case backhoe so we used it , the forklift and procter wall jacks to get it onto the block walls of the garages.

  6. That sounds awesome! Do you have any photos of the process? I would love to see them. Maybe e-mail or facebook?

  7. Canyoueventhink? Probablynot.

    Dude, all that worry about energy efficiency…..Your garage doors is where your going to loose all your heat. The rest is negligible compared to what is being lost out the door.

  8. Thanks for watching the video. You are on the right track that the doors are the weak link in the chain. They most definitely are. The ones I bought are foam filled, rated at R-19. But we all know that is only in the middle of the panel. The steel skins of the panels are seamed together at the edges making thermal bridges pretty obvious. I bet I am only getting a whole-door performance of R-6 or something. But to say that is where I am loosing all of my heat is a bit of an exaggeration. All three door openings total 4.8% of the shell area. I chose to do the best job I can on the 95.2% of the shell I can insulate.

  9. I would love to see pics of how the final product turned out. We are going to build a garage and watching the video was helpful. Thanks lots!

  10. For about a half second I thought the guy cutting the all-thread off was cutting into a propane bottle. That’s what I get for not wearing my glasses. I thought and explosion was eminent…!!!!!

  11. There should also be thermal break under door between outside gravel/asphalt and concrete slab meaning concrete slab shouldn’t be seen on outside directly.

  12. Absolutely, I have a two-inch thermal break, and it is lined up with the garage door. Works great.

  13. I want a 800sq ft  one story house with a three sided wrap around porch that is a four season porch…… and a basement that’s three time s the size of the house and so well built no water can get inside  then in the winter or summer the basement stays a constant 60 degrees…. and I want the house to be built to last a 1000 years. built   basically maintenance free….oh and a six foot wide walk up ramp to the wrap around porch… so anything that has to be moved in and out of the house can be rolled in…and all the utilites would be stored in the basement in its own  room separate from the basement and entered from the outside ….and then the house would be self sufficient from windmill power/solar power/and geo thermal …blahblahblah

  14. and the wrap around porch would 8 -10 foot wide ……….and the roof would all be one continuous roof  =one level..and the whole house would be built above hurricane level code for any home …….built o withstand 300 mile an hour winds.. and debri……..blahblahblha

  15. I am also a fan of the 3/4″ T&G OSB. I made an insulating sandwich for a cathedral roof on a neighbor’s house a few years back with two layers of OSB with 2″ polystyrene insulation board in the middle. Very stout!

    Nice build. Thanks for posting this video.

  16. Rafters come up to a point. … trusses are flat…..

  17. Sounds good.

  18. george lowellohhdgg63nnd

    How long do you need to wait between boiled linseed application and installing them?

  19. Great job on your build, I love most of it, except 2 things. One, I don’t understand the tongue and groove MSD since plywood (at least for roofs) are supposed to have 1/8 inch gaps to allow for expansion. Two, would prefer rafters instead of trusses, to allow an attic storage space…

  20. So, did I.

  21. Total cost?

  22. BIG DEAL.

  23. The tongue and groove OSB (Oriented Strand Board) has a built-in gap. Several manufacturers do this, but check the manufacturers installation instructions and don’t take my word for it. As far as the attic, it is personal preference.

  24. Cooter usa No.

  25. I understand why you used 3/4 tongue and groove but on the walls it’s just plain overkill. 3/4 TnG on the roof, not a good idea. The thickness is not the problem the TnG is. The sheeting needs room to expand and contract. It will soon begin to buckle and warp because it’s too tight. Speaking of too tight, you will need to put in a whole garage ventilation fan in because there is no way to vent out moisture build up, I am assuming you are expecting to work inside this garage during the colder months so there will be moisture build up. If you propane to heat there will be even more moisture build up.

  26. Moisture is always a concern, weather it is a home, garage, or anything else. One of the things I’m trying to do with this building is make it fossil fuel free. I’ve recently completed the heating system which is solar thermal. So no worries about propane. I monitor the relative humidity and keep it in check.

  27. What about the expansion issue with the T&G though?

    I don’t have any direct experience with T&G OSB but I do know that when using this stuff for flooring the manufacturers always recommend leaving a gap between the edge of the floor and the walls for expansion.

    I am building a very similar (i.e. very highly insulated) shop and was considering 9 mm (yes, we use metric over here 🙂 ) OSB sheathing and 18 / 19 mm (basically 3/4″) OSB for the roof but crucially with an allowance for expansion between each sheet.

    My interest has been piqued by your T&G idea – I just need some comfort on the expansion issue.

  28. Interesting.

    Against which – a lot of guys will glue the d*mn thing down all round, so it ain’t going to move anyway (except it always seems to manage it somehow…)

  29. I just followed the manufacturers recommendations. I left an 1/8″ gap (I don’t know… 3mm?) between the butt ends and there is a built-in gap on the T+G. GP (the manufacturer) has videos and PDF’s explaining this. I’ve checked Huber and Wyerhauser (other manufacturers) and they also have installation instructions available on their websites. I’ve received a few comments concerned about the gap so I have added it to my video topic list and will make a video.

  30. We waited overnight, worked fine for us.

  31. george lowellohhdgg63nnd

    Thanks

  32. Nice going with the wall structure.
    Just FYI , this issues with OSB as opposed to traditional plywood is that ply is better with what’s called “point loads”. The nails on flooring using the OSB has been known to pop through . Codes in my part of the country have compensated for this by requiring the boards b glued as well as nailed .
    Hope this helps u with future projects . When I was doing renos (as a plumber) it was kinda easy to knock a hole through the OSB . Not the same for plywood , assuming u didn’t get cheap crap on the ply (low grade with defects).

  33. Heavyboxes DIY Master

    On my framing video on my channel I show how to raise a truss solo and completely safe with no ladder and also very easy and fast. Of course walls can’t be so high and is practically identical to what you did. So I would think, with my method you would max out on a 280 – 400 lb truss depending how heavy and strong you are. But the difference is it’s a solo method. It uses a rope like what you did but through a hole in a 2×4 that is extended high up in the air and allows the puller to be planted on the ground. Not on the truss up in the air.

  34. I want you to build my next house!

  35. Thanks for clarifying, and the comments, that helps a lot!

  36. I know you were building for ultimate energy efficiency but no windows? Two of the reasons I’m building my shop and moving it out of the basement is to get better [natural] lighting and ventilation. I am considering internal insulated wall panels that will slide horizontally over the windows at night or when I’m not in the shop (and that only has to be for half the year). Plus they’d add security in that no-one could peer inside when I’m not around.

  37. Yeah, no windows is weird. I’ve always left the option open for windows in the future, but wanted to try the building without them first. Main reason is to see how efficient I could make it. Another is because I am working hard at learning to make videos and another channel I watch (wood whisperer) said that he has to black-out his windows when making the video otherwise it causes too much contrast. Lastly, I’ve had my tools stolen before by someone breaking into my old garage. As for the internal window shutters, they are very difficult to pull off. I experimented in my house with it and made a video. Basically it needs to be air-tight, rubber gasket all the way around, otherwise frost will build up. Anyways windows are nice, and maybe in the future I might add them, but I’m OK for now.

  38. I just published a video explaining the gap with T+G: https://youtu.be/ELrJdxlFUi0

  39. I just published a video explaining the gap with Tongue and Groove: https://youtu.be/ELrJdxlFUi0

  40. What is the size of this building. And height of the side walls and door size as I didn’t see this.

  41. Hi Phillip, Thanks for watching the video. 1,200 square feet. Essentially we wanted a garage in the forward half, and a workshop in the rear half. Are you building your own project?

  42. Treated lumber is good to keep termites and critters away also.

  43. DavidPoz , yes trying to put a plan together. I wanted it big enough to hold 4 cars abd have a ceiling height if 13 ft for a lift. And also have a loft. This really caught my eye but you did not state the dimensions. Thanks for your reply, this helps me. You guys do great work. I would like to see the finished product.

  44. Hi Phillip, That’s great, if you get a chance to post a video or slideshow please send me the link. My ceiling height is exactly 12 feet, I was told that was enough for a lift, but I don’t know for sure. A lift was not the priority, but I wanted the option out there for the next person. The two front doors are 9×8. The building is 28 wide. This allows items along the walls, and you can still open the car doors.

  45. How big is the garage?? That’s exactly what id love to build!! Thanks

  46. Thanks for watching. 28×44.

Comments are closed.

DIY HQ Videos for Woodworkers © 2017 Frontier Theme